‘Every Chef Should Study Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. However, situated high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.